Annual Event

ICA and Tonkadale Greenhouse
Are Excited To Partner This Spring In The
Fourth Annual “Grow and Give” Produce Fundraiser!

Growing your own food is an easy and inexpensive way to provide nutritious, fresh, local food to those in need. First time vegetable gardeners have an opportunity to try something new and experience the great rewards of growing your own food and giving back to the community.
 
Tonkadale supplies the vegetables.
 
You raise the veggies in your own backyard or garden plot.
 
We all give back to the community by supplying those in need with fresh produce.

The plan is easy:

1. Sign-up: call us at: 952.938.6480, email: mary@tonkadale.com
   
2. Pick-up: May 18th or 19th 6:00-8:00 PM.
   
3. Plant: one of each... Pepper, Tomato, Squash, Cucumber.
   
4. Donate: drop-off at Tonkadale when ready to harvest.
   
5. Be Rewarded: Participants will be rewarded with “Tonkadale Loyalty Points” for each donation!
   

Sign Up To Be Listed As One Of This Years
50 “Grow and Give” Gardeners

Grow and Give gardeners will be rewarded with loyalty points for each drop-off. For each donation, points will be given. Each donation is worth 10 loyalty points. You can spend your points at Tonkadale, or we will donate the cash equivalent to ICA!

St. Therese Of Deephaven Catholic Church & School's
Community Giving Vegetable Garden

Herbs

Veggies & Fruit

 

 

 

 

HERBS At Tonkadale:

	TYPE	VARIETY
	Basil	Amethyst Mrs. Burnes Lemon Lime Green Ruffles/Lettuce Leaf Siam Queen (Thai) Spicy Globe Sweet Pesto Perpetuo
	Catnip
	Chamnomile	German
	Chevril
	Chives
	Cilantro
	Dill	Bouquet
	Fennel	Bronze
	Lavender	Munstead
	Lemon Balm
	Marjoram	Golden Tip Sweet
	Mint	Apple Chocolate Corsican Ginger Orange Peppermint Pineapple Spearmint Kentucky Colonel (Generic)
	Oregano	Golden Italian Greek
	Parsley	Curly Italian
	Rosemary	Arp Prostrate
	Salvia	Berggarten Golden La Crema Pineapple Purple Tri-color
	Summer Savory
	Taragon	French
	Thyme	Golden lemon Lemon Orange Balsam Silver English
	Verbena	Lemon
	Winter Savory

VEGGIES & FRUITS At Tonkadale:        Back To HERBS

	TYPE	VARIETY
	Asparagus	Jersey Giant Mary Washington Purple Passion
	Beet	Bull's Blood
	Blueberry	Blueray Brunswick Chandler Chippewa Northblue Northsky Patriot
	Broccoli
	Brussel Sprouts
	Cabbage
	Cauliflower
	Cucumber	Burpless Bush Pickle Homemade Pickle Straight 8
	Egg Plant	Black Bell Fairy Tale Millionaire
	Lettuce	Arugula Mesculan Mix Mixed Lettuces
	Ornamental Mustard	Brazen Brass — NEW! 2011
	Garlic Bulbs	Available In The Fall
	Kale	Dinosaur Kamome Mix Osaka Mix Star Bor — NEW! 2011 Red Bor
	Kohlrabi
	Onion Sets	Red White Yellow (Spanish)
	Pepper	Anaheim California Wonder Cayenne — Long Red Chile Grande Chocolate Bell Golden Bell Habanero Hungarian Sweet Banana Jalapeno Orange King Pablano Pritivit Red Beauty Redskin Slasa — NEW! 2011 Serrano Super Hungarian Hot Tabasco — NEW! 2011 Thai Hot Wisonsin Lakes
	Potato (Seed)	Kennebec White Red Pontia Red Viking Russet Burbank' Yukon Gold
	Raspberry	Blackhawk Fall Gold Heritage Latham September
	Rhubarb	Crimson Cherry Victoria
	Spinach	Malabar
	Squash — Winter	Acorn Buttercup Butternut
	Squash — Zucchini	Aristocrat Cocozelle
	Strawberry	Ft. Laramie Guardian Honeoye Ogallala Red Chief Surecrop Everbearing Junebearing
	Swiss Chard	5 Color Silver Beet
	Tomato	Beefmaster Better Boy Big Boy Celebrity Cerries Jubilee — NEW! 2011 Cupid Early Girl Fresh Salsa Health Kick Jubilee Patio (Good For "Topsy Turvy" Planter Red Cherry Large Riesentraube Roma Sugary (Grape) Super Fantastic Sweet 100 Sweet Gold Sweet Seedless Tumbler Yellow Pear
	Tomato — Heirloom	Black Prince Brandywine Cherokee Purple Crnkkovic Yugoslavian Green Zebra Mortgage Lifter Moskvich San Marzano Striped German Thessalonika
	Watermelon	Sweet Favorite — NEW! 2011

HERBS TOP

VEGGIES & FRUITS TOP

Generally, fresh fruits and vegetables are high in fiber and low in calories, loaded with Vitamin A and C, Folate and Potassium. Fruits and vegetables help you load-up on Antioxidants and other important Phytochemicals.

CROP	TYPE	NUTRITION
Asparagus	Perennial	Vitamin A, C & K Thiamin Riboflavin Folate Iron Fiber
Beets	Annual	Vitamin C Folate Potassium Fiber
Blueberry	Perennial	Vitamin C & K Anthocyanin Antioxidant Fiber
Broccoli	Annual	Vitamins A, C & K Folate Isothiocyanate & Iodoles Fiber
Brussel Sprouts	Annual	Vitamins A, B6, C, K Folate Isothiocyanate & Iodoles Fiber
Cabbage	Annual	Vitamins C & K Folate Anthocyanins Antioxidant (Purple Varieties) Sulforaphane Isothiocyanate & Indoles
Carrots	Annual	Vitamins A, C & K Potassium Alfa- and Beta-carotene Fiber
Garlic	Perennial
Onions	Perennial	Vitamin B6 & C Allicin Bioflavonoid Antioxidants Fiber
Potatoes	Annual	When Baked With Skin: Vitamins B6 & C Thiamin Niacin Folate Iron Potassium Fiber
Strawberries	Perennial	Vitamin C Anthocyanin Antioxidants Fiber
Tomatoes	Annual	Vitamins A & C Potassium Lycopene Antioxidant (highest in cooked tomato)

Anyone Can Grow Herbs

Location

Though every species requires some care, most herbs are tenacious by nature, and will adapt to many garden conditions. Herbs will tolerate poor soils, but need good drainage. You can plant herbs in containers or in small garden spaces. They like a sunny site and warmed soils. Herbs are grown for color, flavor, fragrance and texture.

Harvesting

Harvesting herb foliage, just before flowering, will produce the strongest flavors. To harvest, cut back between 1/3 and 1/2 of the plant, leaving enough for continued growth. You can harvest flowers at buds stage, and harvest seeds once they are mature. They can be used for culinary purposes either fresh or dried.

Drying Herbs

In order to properly dry your herbs, they must be in a warm, but not hot, location. Keep drying herbs away from direct sunlight. You can dry them on a rack, or tie them in small bunches to hang upside down. In humid climates, where drying is slow, the bundles should be smaller. During the drying process herbs lose some of their essential oils, so the faster they dry, the better.

The Basics Of Herbs:

IMAGE	CROP	TYPE
	Basil	One of the herbs in the bouquet garni. The leaves accent any tomato dish, make delicious herbal vinegar and are essential in making pesto.
	Chamnomile	Scented foliage and daisy like flowers. Excellent in flavoring a soothing tea. Perennial
	Chervil	Peppery-sweet flavor combines well with any herb. It is excellent when combined with chives. Used with egg dishes, soups, potatoes, salads and many vegetables.
	Chives	Chives taste much better fresh rather than dried. Fortunately chives have a long growing season. They are tasty in cheese, egg, or potato dishes, or with any food that doesn’t overtake their delicate onion-like flavor. The flowers make attractive and flavorful vinegar. Perennial
	Cilantro	This herb is the leafy part of the coriander plant. The leaves give distinctive flavors to Mexican, South American, Chinese, South East Asian, North African and East Indian cuisine. The flowers yield coriander seeds which are the base for many curry and salsa dishes. It is still one of the most widely used herbs in the world.
	Dill	Dill is best known as a pickling spice. The seeds and leaves also flavor soups, sauces, egg dishes, cucumbers, assorted vegetable dishes, breads and pastries.
	Fennel	All plant parts can be eaten either raw or cooked. The leaves and seeds are added to sauces, salads and soups. The base can be sauteed and added to meat, such as: pork or steak.
	Lemon Balm	Fresh leaves have more flavor than dried leaves. They are especially good when used in iced teas or lemonade.
	Marjoram	Has a sweet taste, and stands well on its own, or mixed with other herbs in tomato, cheese or bean dishes. It is an ingredient in bouquet garni.
	Mint	Used in sauces, jellies, hot and iced teas. Mints are also used in flavoring many candies, desserts, beverages and liquors. The leaves, when crushed, will release their essential oils. Perennial
	Oregano	Often accompanies marjoram and basil in cheese, tomato, bean, pizza and egg dishes. Perennial
	Parsley	One of the best known culinary herbs. Excellent source of calcium, iron and vitamins. It can be used in all green salads, butters, cream sauces, egg dishes, fish, stews and vegetables.
	Rosemary	An aromatic herb that can be used fresh or dried. Often used for flavoring bread dressings, lamb, chicken, fish or vegetables.
	Sage	Makes an excellent vinegar and is the main seasoning in most stuffing recipes. The leaves are most commonly used dried. Sage is a pungent herb, and should be used sparingly. Add to pork, turkey, dressings and egg dishes.
	Summer Savory
	Taragon
	Thyme	Has a great variety of uses in cooking. In combination with other herbs it is used in seafood and fish dishes of all kinds. It enhances soups, stews, stuffings, vegetables, fish and fowl. Perennial
	Verbena	Fresh leaves have more flavor than dried leaves. They are especially good when used in iced teas or lemonade.

• Vegetables and Herbs in Containers
• Front Yard Vegetable Gardens
• Raised Beds
• Go Vertical
• Wide-Row Gardening
• Square Foot Gardening
• Herbs and Veggies for their ornamental qualities in beds and borders

The Seed Packet… Flip It Over, Find A Plethora Of Knowledge and Information…

Tonkadale has a wide variety of flower and vegetable seeds as well as seed starting supplies to get you growing this spring.

We carry seeds from:

• Botanical Interests
• Seed Savers
• Livingston Seeds

At Tonkadale, you will find a nice selection of Organic and Conventional Seeds as well as your favorite Hybrids and Heirlooms. 

Botanical Interests and Seed Savers have great resources on their websites. Visit these sites to get started.

  

Check-out Our Seed Starting Worksheet
To Get Organized…

Seed Starting Worksheet Coming Soon!

Depending on what you are growing, there are different guidelines for sowing seeds indoors.  Follow the directions on the seed packet for sowing and planting out dates. Usually these dates correspond with the last frost date in your area. In the Twin Cities/Metro Area, the last average frost date is May 15th.

Example: 

• Sow crops like Tomatoes and Peppers indoors...
  6 weeks before the last average frost date. 
• Sow crops like Cucumbers and Squash indoors...
  4 weeks before the last average frost date.  
• Plant Tomatoes, Peppers, Cucumbers and Squash transplants outdoors
  when the soil is warm and the night time temperatures are consistently
  above 45° F… 2 weeks after the last average frost date.

Heirlooms vs. Hybrids…

Hybrid seeds are commonly defined as seed that is produced from cross-pollinating plants chosen for their superior genetic traits. Hybrids are bred to improve the characteristics of the resulting plants, such as better yield, greater uniformity, improved color, disease resistance, and so forth. Hybrid seed cannot be saved, as the seed from the first generation of Hybrid plants does not reliably produce true copies.

The definition of the use of the word Heirloom to describe plants is highly debated. A true Heirloom is a cultivar that has been nurtured, selected, and handed down from one generation to another for many generations. They are also open pollinated varieties that are bred and stabilized using classic breeding practices.  Many Heirloom vegetables have kept their traits through many generations through open pollination.

The Seed Starting Tips

• Soil
• Containers
• Drainage & Airflow
• Light
• Temperature
• Water
• Fertilizer
• Hardening Off

Soil
It is best to start seeds in a well drained germination mix. 

Tonkadale carries a very light and sterile mix that contains vermiculite and perlite to promote water retention, drainage and aeration.

Containers
The sky is the limit when it comes to seed starting containers. 

You can make your own out of:

• Toilet paper rolls
• Newspaper
• Plastic lettuce containers
• Yogurt cups, etc...

…just check out your recycling bin.

Many types of containers are also available
to purchase at Tonkadale:

• Plastic pots and containers
• Rice-hull pots
• Many varieties of biodegradable pots

.

Drainage & Airflow
To ensure success… make sure your pots and containers have adequate drainage. Good drainage and proper airflow promote healthy seedlings and prevent disease. 

Light
In general, bright light is required for germination and seedling growth. However, there are a few crops that need complete darkness to germinate. A common example is lettuce seeds. Check your seed packet for germination light requirements. Once the seeds have germinated, provide bright light close to the height of the seedling. This promotes strong, sturdy growth and limits stretching. 

Temperature
Seeds need warm soil temperatures to germinate.  65° F- 75° F is the general range. Again, check-out your seed packets for detailed temperature information. Many seed starting enthusiasts provide bottom heat when starting seeds, others rely on the ambient heat from heaters and radiators. 

Water
Moisture and humidity are important to seed starting success. 

When seeds are germinating, increased humidity is required. Cover containers with plastic wrap or a plastic cover to increase the humidity next to the soil. 

As soon as the seed germinates, remove the plastic wrap.

Water frequently to keep moisture levels high, but be careful not to flood out seeds and seedlings. 

Fertilizer
After the first true leaves develop, it is time to start fertilizing your seedlings. Use a half-strength liquid fertilizer regimen on a weekly basis at this time.

Hardening Off
Before seedlings can be planted outdoors, they need to be hardened off, or acclimated to direct sunlight and fluctuating temperatures. It is best to do this over a three-day period by placing them in direct sunlight during the morning of the first day, then increasing their time outside by a few hours each day until they are vigorous enough to be transplanted.

Hardening Off
Before seedlings can be planted outdoors, they need to be hardened off, or acclimated to direct sunlight and fluctuating temperatures. It is best to do this over a three-day period by placing them in direct sunlight during the morning of the first day, then increasing their time outside by a few hours each day until they are vigorous enough to be transplanted.

 

 

 

Tips and Tricks For Tomatoes

Common Tomato Diseases, Disorders and Pests

Tips For Preventing Disease Before It Starts

1. Plant resistant varieties with good horticultural characteristics.

   Symbols For Disease Resistance In Tomatoes

   V =Verticillium Wilt
   F1 = Fusarium, Strain 1
   F2 = Fusarium, Strain 2
   N = Nematodes
   A = Alternaria
   T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus
   St = Gray Leaf Spot
   SWV = Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

2. Purchase disease-free transplants from a reliable source.
3. Maintain a disease control program throughout the growing season.
4. Establish good cultural and sanitation practices.

Such as:

• Proper soil preparation
• Fertilizing
• Watering
• Early detection and removal of diseased leaves and plants

 

5. Rotate Tomatoes and Solanaceous Crops each year to reduce persistence of disease and re-infection.
   
   

Tomato Diseases - Foliage

• Early Blight
• Grey Leaf Spot
• Late Blight
• Septoria Leaf Spot
• Verticillium Wilt
• Fusarium Wiltis
• Tobacco Mosaic Virus

Early Blight can affect the foliage, stems and fruit of tomatoes.

Symptoms: Ironically, symptoms of Early Blight usually appear near the end of the growing season. Dark spots with concentric rings develop on older leaves first. The surrounding leaf area may turn yellow. The leaves of severely affected plants may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sun scald. Plants are most susceptible when they are under stress from another disease or nutrient deficiency.

Management: Early Blight fungus overwinters in plant residue and is soil-borne. It can also be present on transplants. Remove affected plants and thoroughly clean fall garden debris. Wet weather and stressed plants increase the likelihood of attack. Minimize leaf wetness by watering plants in the morning or at the base of the plant.

If Early Blight appears, apply one of the following fungicides at 7-10 day intervals.

Copper and/or Sulfur Sprays can prevent further development of the fungus.

 

Fung-onil® is also an effective treatment and contains Chlorothalonil as the active ingredient.  

Gray Leaf Spot affects only the leaves of tomatoes, starting with the oldest leaves.

Symptoms: Small, dark spots that can be seen on both the top and bottom surfaces of the leaves. The spots enlarge and turn a grayish brown. Eventually, the centers of the spots crack and fall out. Surrounding leaf areas turn yellow and the leaves dry and drop. Fruit production is inhibited.

Management: Warm, moist conditions worsen gray leaf spot problems. Remove all affected plants and fall garden debris. Select resistant varieties.

Late Blight affects both the leaves and fruit of tomatoes. Late Blight is the disease responsible for the Irish Potato Famine. Late Blight spreads rapidly in cool, wet weather. Late Blight can appear at anytime during the growing season, but usually appears in late summer or early fall. Late Blight fungus overwinters in plant residue and is soil-borne
 

Symptoms: Greasy looking irregularly shaped gray spots appear on leaves. A ring of white mold can develop around the spots, especially in wet weather. The spots eventually turn dry and papery. Blackened areas may appear on the stems. The fruits also develop large, irregularly shaped, greasy gray spots.

Management: Copper Sprays and chlorothalonil offer some control at the first sign of disease. Controlling Late Blight is difficult once the disease is established. Remove and destroy diseased plant parts as they appear. 

Septoria Leaf Spot is sometimes mistaken for Late Blight. With Septoria Leaf Spot, the papery patches on the leaves develop tiny, dark specks inside them. Older leaves are affected first.

Management: Copper Sprays are somewhat effective in halting the spread of symptoms. Cultural control is the best way to prevent Septoria Leaf Spot. Water plants at the base rather than overhead, stake plants to increase air circulation and apply mulch around the base of the plant to minimize water splash. Septoria overwinters in plant debris and soil. Be sure to remove infected plants at the end of the growing season.

Verticillium Wilt is caused by a soil-borne fungus and it can affect many different vegetables. The fungus can persist in the soil for many years, so crop rotation and selection of resistant varieties is crucial.

Symptoms: Wilting during the hottest part of the day and recovering at night, yellowing and eventually browning between the leaf veins starting with the older, lower leaves and discoloration inside the stems. In addition, infected plants often have a characteristic V-shaped lesion at the edge of the leaf occurring in a fan pattern. Verticillium Wilt inhibits the plants ability to take in water and nutrients and will eventually kill the plant. Verticillium Wilt is more pronounced in cool weather.

Management: Whenever possible, plant resistant varieties. Remove and destroy any infested plant material to prevent the fungi from overwintering and creating new infections. Keep plants healthy by watering and fertilizing as needed. Gardens should be kept weed-free since many weeds are hosts for the pathogen.

Fusarium Wiltis a fungus that can attack tomatoes at any time during the growing season. Fusarium Wiltis usually enters the plant through young roots and then grows into and up the water conducting vessels of the roots and stem. Currently, there are two strains that infect tomatoes.

Symptoms: Fusarium Wiltis symptoms begin in tomatoes as slight vein clearing on outer leaflets and drooping of leaf petioles. Later the lower leaves wilt, turn yellow and die and the entire plant may be killed, often before the plant reaches maturity. In many cases a single shoot wilts before the rest of the plant shows symptoms, or one side of the plant is affected first. If the main stem is cut,  a dark-brown streaks may be seen running lengthwise through the stem.

Management: Management mostly consists of cultural practices much like those used to prevent Verticillium. Whenever possible, plant resistant varieties. Remove and destroy any infested plant material to prevent the fungi from overwintering and creating new infections. Keep plants healthy by watering and fertilizing as needed. Gardens should be kept weed-free since many weeds are hosts for the pathogen.

Tobacco Mosaic Virus is one of the most common causes of virus diseases of plants in Minnesota. 

Symptoms: Virus produces mosaic-like symptoms on plants. Mosaic-like symptoms are characterized by intermingled patches of normal and light green or yellowish colors on the leaves of infected plants. Tobacco Mosaic Virus damages the leaves, flowers, and fruit and causes stunting of the plant. The virus almost never kills plants but lowers the quality and quantity of the crop, particularly when the plants are infected while young.

Management: There are no known chemical cures for plant viruses.  Control of Tobacco Mosaic Virus is primarily focused on reducing and eliminating sources of the virus and limiting the spread by insects. Therefore, sanitation is the single most important practice in controlling

 

Tomato Diseases - Fruit

• Anthracnose
• Blossom End Rot

Anthracnose
is a very common fungus that causes tomato fruit to rot.

Symptoms: Small, round, sunken spots appear on the fruit. The spots
will increase in size and darken in the center. Several spots may merge as they enlarge. The fungus is often splashed onto the fruit from the soil. It can also take hold on Early Blight spots or dying leaves. Wet weather encourages the development of Anthracnose. Overripe tomatoes that come in contact with wet soil are especially susceptible.

Management: Anthracnose overwinters on infected plant debris,
so it is very important to dispose of rotten fruit and infected plants.
Pick fruit promptly to avoid over-ripening.

Copper Sprays offer some resistance. Remove the lower 12" of leaves, to avoid contact with the soil. Remember not to water the leaves, just the base of the plant.

Tonkadale Recommends The Following Products For Treating Tomato and Vegetable Fungal Diseases

Copper Dust	Sulfur Sprays	Fung-Onil

Blossom End Rot is thought to be caused by insufficient calcium. This Calcium deficiency is most likely caused by irregular watering and a fluctuation in water levels. Without enough water, the Calcium, which is being used first for foliage growth, doesn't make its way to the fruits. Other factors may include:

• Too much Nitrogen fertilizer
• Too much salt in the soil
• Root damage and a soil pH that is too high or too far below the optimum 6.5.

There's no saving the rotting fruits. Remove the affected fruits, make sure the plants are getting at least an inch of water per week.

Management: To prevent Blossom End Rot, enrich your soil at the time of transplant with a specialty, calcium based tomato fertilizer such as Tomato Tone®.

If you see signs of Blossom End Rot, there are products that can be sprayed directly on the fruit. We recommend a product called Rot-Stop®.

 

 

Tomato Disorders

• Grey Wall
• Sunscald
• Growth Cracks
• Catface

Gray Wall is essentially a ripening problem.

Symptoms: Green fruits may have a gray cast or gray blotches. Ripe fruit will have green or brown areas on the inside of the fruit.

Management: Good growing conditions will prevent gray wall. Make sure plants aren't heavily shaded, are receiving even watering and sufficient fertilize. Insure that the soil is not compacted around the roots. Cool temperatures and stressed or unhealthy plants also contribute to this problem.

Sunscald occurs on tomato fruit that have been exposed to too much sun. This is common in plants that are suffering leaf loss from a leaf spot disease or insect feeding, but can also occur on plants that are over pruned or on fruit that are otherwise exposed to the sun.

Symptoms: Sunscald results in a pale yellow to white spot on the side of the fruit facing the sun. This area may become a flattened, grayish-white spot. The surface may dry out to a paper like texture. Sunscald spots are frequently invaded by decay-causing fungi and bacteria that further rot the fruit.

Management: The best way to avoid Sunscald is to maintain a healthy tomato plant through management of insect and disease pests that defoliate tomatoes.

Growth Cracks result from extremely rapid fruit growth. This may be brought on by periods of abundant rain and high temperatures, or can occur when water is suddenly available to the plant through rain or irrigation after a period of drought.

Symptoms: Growth Cracks may radiate from the stem end of the fruit or may encircle the fruit. Growth Cracks are often invaded by secondary fungi and bacteria that further rot the fruit.

Management: Maintaining even moisture by watering regularly and mulching the soil around the tomato plant can help reduce Growth Cracks. Varieties differ in susceptibility to cracking, and variety descriptions may be helpful in choosing a plant less likely to crack.

Catface is a condition involving malformation and scarring of fruits, particularly at the blossom end. The causes of Catfacing are not definitely known, but it is generally agreed that any disturbance to flowers or flower buds can lead to abnormally shaped fruits. Cold temperatures and contact with hormone-type herbicide sprays are commonly believed to be responsible for Catface. 

Symptoms: Affected fruit are often somewhat flat with a corky brown scar covering the base of the fruit. Catfaced fruit can have cavities extending deep into the flesh.

Management: Large fruited tomatoes are more susceptible to catface than small fruited tomatoes. In addition some varieties are particularly prone to Catface and should be avoided if catface has been a problem in the past.

 

Tomato Pests

• Cutworms
• Hornworms
• Root Knot Nematodes

Cutworms
Some species of Cutoworms migrate from the south while others are native to MN and overwinter in the soil each year as eggs or larvae.

Symptoms: Cutoworms are most devastating in the vegetable garden in the early spring as they chew through the stems of young, tender plants. 

Management: Remove weeds and plant residue to help reduce egg-laying. Till your garden before planting which helps expose and kill overwintering larvae. You can control Cutworms by placing aluminum foil, cardboard collars or tin cans around transplants. This creates a barrier that physically prevents Cutworms larvae from feeding on plants. When placing these collars around plants, make sure one end is pushed a few inches into the soil, and the other end extends several inches above ground.

The use of insecticides in home gardens is usually not necessary, but you can protect plants if you are experiencing a severe problem. Tonkadale recommends products containing permethrin such as Bonide Eight®.

 

 

Hornworms
Tomato Hornworms are very large caterpillars that have a "horn-like" tail. Large numbers of caterpillars can occur in home gardens and can quickly defoliate plants. Tomato Hornworms feed only on solanaceous plants such as tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant and peppers.

Symptoms: Tomato Hornworms caterpillars feed initially on the leaves on the upper portions of the plants. The green caterpillars blend in with the plant canopy, and can go unnoticed until most of the damage is done. As they feed, they create dark green or black droppings that can be conspicuous. 

Management: The best management strategy is to physically inspect tomato plants for Hornworms and remove them at the first sign of damage. Insecticides are generally not needed, but products such as:

Insecticidal Soap	Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew

are effective. Remove plant debris from the garden and till the soil under each year as Hornworm overwinter in residual plant material.

Root Knot Nematodes
Root Knot Nematodes are obligate parasites that require a host plant to thrive. They live in the soil and reproduce rapidly. RKN attacks are rare in MN because the soil temperatures are not high enough most of the year to support their life cycle.

Symptoms: Plant symptoms appear above ground because of root dysfunction. These include reduced vigor, wilting, and nutrient deficiency.

Management: Apply good cultural controls as discussed above and choose resistant varieties. 

Here are a few of the best links to sleuth out a solution for your home and garden pest and disease problems…

  
U of M Extension Services — Pests

  
Insect Control Products

 

 

Plant Resistant Varieties With
Good Horticultural Characteristics.

Symbols For Disease Resistance In Tomatoes:

V =Verticillium Wilt
F1 = Fusarium, Strain 1
F2 = Fusarium, Strain 2
N = Nematodes
A = Alternaria
T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus
St = Gray Leaf Spot
SWV = Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

Information About Tonkadales Tomatoes

VARIETY	DESCRIPTION
CHERRY ...
Large Red Cherry	Extremely popular Tomato among home gardeners and market growers. Large, sweet, cherry-like fruits are produced in large clusters on strong vines. Great for eating right off the vine. 1-2 oz. fruit. Indeterminate. 75-80 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1
Sweet Gold Cherry	Flavor that's anything but standard! Orange fruit have a very sweet, succulent flavor. Plants bear hundreds of fruits in a season. Born in large clusters of a dozen and grow to about 1/2 inch. An early variety. Indeterminate. 60 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Cherries Jubilee Cherry	Super flavorful, super producer. In a single season these bushy plants produce hundreds of sweet red ¾" Mini Cherry Tomatoes. Flavorful, with a balanced sugar/acid flavor. Determinate. 70 days to harvest. Good disease resistance.
Sweet 100 Cherry	Small sweet cherry-like fruit are produced in large clusters. Delightful eaten straight from the vine. Ideal for salads, sandwiches & soups. Indeterminate. 65 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F
Sugary Grape	Award-winning Sugary has it all... super-sweet flavor, a fun new shape, and huge yields on plants that just keep growing all season long! Kids love them for their sweet taste. Eat fresh or on salads. Semi-indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Cupid Grape	This tomato will make you fall in love... with its rich flavor, huge yields, and ease of growth! Bright red, resistant to cracking and about an inch long. Grape-like Tomatoes are packed with Vitamin C and healthy sugars. Indeterminate. 66 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: F1 A St
Yellow Pear Grape	A very tasty pear shaped yellow tomato. Colorful in salads, sliced or in preserves. As rich in vitamins as it is in flavor. A very popular variety for the home garden. Indeterminate. 70 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
HEIRLOOM ...
Riesentraube Heirloom	Originally from Germany. Name translates as “giant bunches of grapes.” High-yielding plants. Tasty, 1" fruits are borne on large sprays and shaped like plums. Good eaten fresh, on salads and for drying.Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
San Marzano Heirloom	The ultimate paste tomato! 3½-inch-long tapered fruits in clusters of five or six. Low in sugar and acid, which gives superior flavor when cooked. Prolific and will produce until the first hard frost. 5-8 oz. fruit. Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Black Prince Heirloom	Brown shoulders become orange-red at the blossom end. Color deeper in sunnier locations. Rich fruity Tomato flavor. Relatively smooth, 3-5 oz., 3" globes show less cracking than typically seen in most Heirlooms. Indeterminate. 72 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Brandywine Heirloom	A favorite potato-leaved heirloom tomato variety. Large pink beefsteak fruits to 2 pounds. Incredibly rich, delightfully intense Tomato flavor. One of the most popular home garden cultivars in the United States. Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Cherokee Purple Heirloom	Medium-large, flattened globe fruits. Color is dusky pink with dark shoulders. Multi-locular interior ranges from purple to brown to green. Relatively short vines. 12 oz. Tomatoes have delicious sweet flesh. Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Crnkovic Yugoslavian Heirloom	Heavy yields of pink beefsteak fruits which weigh up to a 1 lb. each. Fruits have near perfect shoulders that almost never crack. Delicious full Tomato flavor. Indeterminate. 85 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Green Zebra Heirloom	A delicious, tangy tomato, ripe just as the green fruit develops a yellow blush, accentuating the darker green stripes. The 3-4 oz. fruits are the ideal size for slicing into wedges for salads. Productive over a long season. Indeterminate. 75 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Mortgage Lifter Heirloom	Large, slightly flattened, pink-red fruits range from 1 lb. to more than 3 lbs. Very meaty, extremely flavorful and have few seeds. Typically crack-free. Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Moskvich Heirloom	One of the most appealing early Tomatoes. Fruits are early, deep red and cold tolerant. Rich taste, smooth skin, globe shaped. 4-6 oz. Indeterminate. 60 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Striped German Heirloom	These flat, medium to large, variably ribbed-shoulder Tomatoes are shaded yellow and red. The marbled interior looks beautiful sliced. Complex, fruity flavor and smooth texture. 12 oz. fruit. Indeterminate. 78 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Thessaloniki Heirloom	Skin is very tough, highly resistant to cracking. Ripens to a beautiful scarlet color, uniformly over the entire fruit. Its solid fleshy interior is mildly flavored and fruits keep very well after ripening. 5-7 oz. fruit. Indeterminate. 65-70 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Jubilee Yellow	Produces high yields of golden-yellow tomatoes. Excellent for making tomato juice and canning. Also good in salads and cooking. Low acid variety. 8 oz. fruit. 1943 AAS Winner. Indeterminate. 72 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 T
HYBRID ...
Sweet Seedless Hybrid	The World’s First Seedless Tomato. This totally new Tomato is the perfect balance of flavor, sweetness, meat, gel, firmness and juiciness. Produces 8-10 oz. red, round fruit. Indeterminate. 68 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.
Beefmaster Hybrid	Strong vines yield large quantities of meaty tomatoes up to 2 lbs. A large, deep red, full flavored fruit. Use in salads, sandwiches, hot dishes, soups and sauces. Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 N A St
Better Boy Hybrid	A trusted favorite for many years! A great performer with big hybrid-quality yields of succulent, juicy yet meaty tomatoes. 10 oz.+ fruit ideal for salads, soups, hot dishes, pickling and superb on sandwiches. Indeterminate. 72 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 N A St
Big Boy Hybrid	An old time favorite with large globe shaped fruit. 1 to 2 lbs. Dark scarlet red fruit with thick walls and great flavor. Perfect base for many cooked dishes and superb on sandwiches. Ideal for salads, soups and for pickling. Indeterminate. 80 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 T
Celebrity Hybrid	Vigorous high yielding tomato with firm, flavorful fruit. An all-purpose variety with crack resistant fruits averaging 7 oz. AAS Winner. Determinate. 70 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 F2 N T A St
Early Girl Hybrid	One of the earliest tomatoes available! Medium globe-type popular for its ease of growth. Highly popular and tasty. 4-6 oz. fruit. Indeterminate. 55 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 F2
Super Fantastic Hybrid	Super Fantastic F1 Tomatoes produce high yields all summer long. 10 oz. fruits are solid and meaty and good for slicing. Indeterminate. 70 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 N
ROMA ...
Fresh Salsa Roma	Salsa lovers, your tomato is here. Large plum-shaped 4-5 oz. fruit are all meat. Great for salsa, bruschettas and sauces. Determinate. 65-70 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 F2
Health Kick Roma	Packed with the 50% more of the beneficial Antioxidant Lycopene, this prolific saladette produces a bountiful crop of 4 ounce, sweet red fruits. Determinate. 75 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1
Roma Hybrid	This tomato is a meaty plum type with few seeds and is good for canning, sauces and salsa. While Roma is an open-pollinated variety, it is generally not considered an Heirloom tomato. 1-2 oz. fruit. Determinate. 80 days to harvest. Good disease resistance: V F1 N A
Tumbler Trailing	This cascading tomato plant is ideal for hanging baskets and containers. Prolific plants produce up to 6 lbs. of Cherry-type Tomatoes that are very sweet and tasty. 1” fruit are great for fresh eating salads and cooking. Determinate. 50 days to harvest. Natural disease resistance.

Now Let’s Eat...
Recipes From The Kitchens Of Tonkadale!

Creamy Veggie Dip
Fresh Salsa
Savory Butters
Rosemary Roasted Nuts
Lemonade With Fresh Mint
Cornmeal Thyme Cookies
Antipasto Salad
Janets Pesto

TO PRINT THESE RECIPES

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Creamy Veggie Dip
Serves: 10

1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 2” pieces
5 medium radishes
½ red pepper, cut into quarters
1 celery stalk, cut into 2” pieces
2 green onions, cut into 2” pieces
1 package (3 oz. size) cream cheese softened
½ cup light mayonnaise
1 container (16 oz. size) reduced-fat sour cream
1 ½ teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper

In food processor with knife blade attached, combine carrot, radishes, red pepper, celery and green onions; process until finely chopped. Transfer vegetables to a medium bowl.

In food processor with knife blade attached, process cream cheese and mayonnaise until smooth. Add to vegetables in bowl. Add sour cream, lemon peel, salt and pepper; stir until well blended.

Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 2 days. Stir before serving.

 

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Fresh Salsa

5 - 6  Medium Tomatoes, chopped
1 Medium Onion, chopped
1 Green Bell Pepper, chopped
1 Jalapeno Pepper,  or other Hot Peppers, finely chopped
1 Bunch Cilantro, finely chopped
4 Cloves Garlic,  finely chopped
Juice of two (2) Limes
2 Teas. Sea Salt
2 Teas. Cumin
2 Teas. Chili Powder
1 Tbsp. Sugar

Combine all the ingredients and refrigerate for 1 hour.  
If you’d like more control over the temperature, ( hot vs. mild ), add the hot
peppers a little at a time.     

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Savory Butters

NOTE: Use unsalted butter in all the recipes. All butters can be used as an accompaniment to grilled fish, chicken, meat and vegetables. Should you have any left over, simply form into a small roll, wrap in foil or freezer wrap and store in the freezer.

Lemon Butter

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
White pepper to taste
½ teaspoon salt
½ lemon rind, finely grated

Make a paste of all ingredients in a food processor. Rub through a fine-meshed sieve. Put into plastic container and chill until needed. Allow to come to room temperature before using.

Lemon & Parsley Butter

Make one recipe Lemon Butter. After sieving, add 1 cup very finely chopped parsley. Pack and store as above.

Garlic Butter

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 large garlic cloves, peeled
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Blanch garlic in boiling water for 2 minutes; drain and let cool. Put through a garlic press and beat into the softened butter along with the salt and lemon juice. Pack and store as above.

Chive Butter

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
White pepper to taste
½ teaspoon lemon juice
¼ cup finely snipped chives

Beat butter with the lemon juice and pepper. Mix in the snipped chives. Pack and store as above.

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Rosemary Roasted Nuts

1 ¼ pound raw nuts – almonds, cashews or pecans
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped
½ teaspoon cayenne (ground red pepper)
2 teaspoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1 tablespoon butter, melted

Preheat oven to 375°.
Place nuts on baking sheet in single layer and bake for 10 minutes.
Combine remaining ingredients in large bowl. Toss hot nuts in mixture until thoroughly coated. Spread out on baking sheet and allow to stand until dry before storing in air-tight container.

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Lemonade with Fresh Mint

1 ½ cups sugar
2 ½ cups water
1 cup fresh mint leaves
Juice of 2 oranges
Juice of 6 lemons
Grated rind of 1 orange
Fresh orange or lemon slices and sprigs of mint for garnish

Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan; bring to a boil. Boil 5 minutes. Remove from heat; cool slightly.

Place mint leaves in a small bowl; add sugar syrup, orange juice, lemon juice and grated orange peel. Cover and let steep for 1 hour. Strain into a one-quart container. Cover and keep refrigerated.

To serve, mix 1 part lemon mint mixture with 2 parts water. Serve over ice and garnish with lemon or orange slices and sprigs of mint if desired.

Makes about 1 quart syrup or 3 quarts of lemonade.

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Cornmeal Thyme Cookies

1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup yellow cornmeal
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup butter, softened (2 sticks)
1 ¼ cups sugar
2 large eggs
¾ cup dried currants
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350°.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Whisk together flour, baking soda, cornmeal and salt in a medium bowl. Put butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; cream on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Mix in eggs, one at a time. Add flour mixture; mix on low speed until just combined. Mix in currants and thyme. Using a tablespoon or a 1 ½ inch ice cream scoop, drop rounded balls of dough on lined sheets, spacing them 2 inches apart. Bake until pale golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Allow to cool on sheets for one or two minutes and then gently remove to wire racks to cool thoroughly. Store in an air-tight container or can be frozen. Makes 4 dozen cookies.

NOTE: Mounds of raw cookie dough can be frozen on cookie sheets and then placed in freezer bags to be baked as you need them.

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Antipasto Salad

Red Wine Vinaigrette:

2 cups fresh basil leaves, stemmed and chopped
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Antipasto Salad:

1 pound fusili pasta
¼ pound hard salami cut in cubes
¼ pound provolone cheese, cubed
¼ cup Asiago cheese, grated
2 tablespoons green olives, pitted and chopped
2 tablespoons roasted red peppers cut into strips
1 cup grape tomatoes, halved
Salt and pepper to taste

In a blender, add the basil, vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt and pepper. Blend until the herbs are finely chopped. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil until the dressing is smooth.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain pasta.
While pasta is still hot, place in large bowl and pour vinaigrette over, mixing well. When cooled to room temperature, add remaining ingredients and toss to mix thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve. Refrigerate if not serving immediately.

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Janet’s Pesto

2 cups fresh basil leaves, washed and patted dry
4 large cloves garlic
1 cup shelled walnuts
1 cup good olive oil
1 cup parmesan cheese, grated
1/2 cup Romano cheese, grated
Salt and pepper to taste

Mixing Directions:

Combine Basil, Garlic and Walnuts in food processor. With the motor running, add olive oil in a steady stream. Shut-off motor and add cheeses, salt and pepper (easy on the salt) Stir and pour over hot pasta. OR Cover and refrigerate until ready to use

• Makes 2 cups
• Can be frozen.
• Defrost at room temperature and pour over hot pasta. Do not heat or cheese will get clumpy.

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